Even today, women do curls but the look today is more sleek straight and minimalistic in terms of hair rather than those fancy updos which is spotted only on special occasions. Women also started wearing skirts with shorter hemlines due to limited availability of fabrics and rationing system and 2 piece suits below knees were seen too. Chanel’s “New Look” was introduced in this decade with rounded shoulders and cinched waistline which became quite popular and was widely accepted as clothes needed to be more practical and functional. Make up in the 1940s was glamourous with bold lip colors for the evening and natural look for the day, this is similar in todays time too.
Films also influenced fashion with popular movies like Casablanca and The Grapes of Wrath which had technological advancement as per their time and is still looked up to today by the filmmakers. Popular celebrities like Ava Gardner, Bette Davis, Rita Hayworth, Doris Day and Katharine Hepburn were revolutionising fashion and were always spotted in trendy styles which were followed by the masses. Today social media gives a huge exposure and runway trends can be seen live which has given birth to fast fashion where people want to buy fashion more often and tend to use less of the same clothes. Celebrities like Beyonce, Kim Kardashian, Gigi Hadid, Angelina Jolie, Selena Gomez have influenced a huge number of people with their fashion styles and work.
Introduction
The last century has not been long in human history but fashion history has been constantly evolving and changing along with the changing times. It’s the difference between trying to get around in bone cinching girdle and ankle-length skirt, versus the Nike leggings and Vans sneakers of the today’s times which may be seen on every other person (Parkin, 2018). In the preceding years, there have been major shifts in technology, politics, culture and society which has been reflected in fashion and its ever-changing cycle of trends. Trends like sky-high platform of the 70’s to the high waisted bikinis of the 40’s, these looks have been inspiring designers till date as an inspiration for the designers today (Parkin, 2018).
The latest trends are small compared to the history of fashion with styles changing constantly in fashion today and past. Our clothing today has been inspired by the events from the past and has evolved to date. Every decade has revisited the past times for inspirations and to understand the needs of consumer thus enabling a savvy dressed world. Without fashions and history designers wouldn’t be creating the clothes we have now. It’s important to understand why we dress how we do, sometimes regrettable or with a sartorial elegance, because it all bases back down to our fashion history. Culture, artists, musicians and politics have all inspired the way we dress. Fashion and history is about all of it, not just the clothes. The people and events that influenced fashion are just as important as the actual clothes.
The 1940s was a decade of change, this was a decade many countries around the world can not forget. This decade towers over every other decade of the 20th century as the most full of sorrow, patriotism, and ultimately, hope and the beginning of a new era of American dominance on the world stage (Rosenberg, 2018). 1940s fashion for men and women experienced deep changes but also created some of the most flattering designs of the 20th century. The Early to mid Forties were dominated by World War II and following the end of the war the start of the Baby Boomer Years, Technology advancements during wartime including the Jet Engine, Nuclear Fusion, Radar, Rocket Technology and others later became the starting points for Space Exploration and Improved Air Travel.
1940s saw an increasing popularity of 2 piece swimsuits as a result of fabric rationing enforced by the US government. Three years later, French designer Louis Réard introduced the bikini we know today, naming it after the site of American nuclear tests and daring to cut it below the belly button—a style that wouldn’t fully be embraced until decades later (Parkin, 2018). In spring 2017, Réard relaunched with a collection of luxurious, modern bikinis and one-pieces. Practicality was of great essence during this time. Clothing was meant just to cover the body, and it was designed for the busy men and women involved in fighting or working during this time. “As long as there is a desire for change and sense of fantasy – there will be fashion.” (Vogue, 1940).
Fashion/hair and Make Up Style Trends
1940s was a decade of war where world war had just begun in 1939, but fashion still had its place, even in the time of war. There was a limited number of ration for womens so materials was severely rationed and it led to the fashion of shorter skirts than ever before, solely because they used the least amount of fabric to make. Nylon stockings, which were very popular, became scarce, so women began wearing just ankle socks or showing their bare legs. This is even a trend today where women wear skirts along with stockings or socks of ankle style or knee high style which helps them protect the cold and is fashionable too. The silhouettes in 1940s fashion were generally A line which included 2 piece suits with matching skirts and cinched waistline, trousers with flare and straight leg, balloon and puff sleeves, shoulder pads, closed toes shoes with block heels. Much of these trends can be seen today with high waist trousers and matching suits making their way back in fashion.
When French designer Christian Dior reacted against the deprivation of the war by showing off his new looks, Paris couture was again the leader in fashion. However, American ready-to-wear clothing had become very well-liked, and American designers then began to take a more prominent place in the world of fashion, which they still hold today (“The People History,” 2010). Today this fashion has been adopted so widely that every women in this decade wears jeans, trousers and pants. Wearing gowns has become an occasional event in the times today. Clothing has been more practical, relevant and minimalistic fashion is in trend in today’s time. Along with the invention of suits and pants for women work culture followed the empowerment for women and gave them confidence, power and freedom. During world war women were now full-fledged members of the work force, and designers came out with the ultimate practical clothing to accommodate this shift in occupation. Women began wearing pants or overalls, and tying their hair up in scarves for work. This culture has had a huge impact on the lives of women and today majority of the women are part of the workforce in major companies all across the globe. The high waist fashion of 1940s have been in fashion since last 3 years and all major brands have high waist denims, trousers in the stores and can be seen by people on the streets. This era also showcases the invention of 2 piece swimsuit which was a revolutionary clothing for women, even today 2 piece swimsuit is popular all across the globe and is worn in beaches and resort wear.
The glamorous era of the 1940s brought makeup to a new level of femininity. Despite war rationing, women round the developed world began applying makeup from their teen years, which is a case even today where girls start doing the make up in their high school and early teens. The makeup look of the 1940s is classic and sophisticated, but very simple to recreate. Faces were flawless and fresh looking – the look was all-natural, never ‘painted on.’ Makeup today trend today also focuses on natural look with no makeup face and woke up like this look being famous on social media site like instagram. Less was always better than more, which was good since most women were surviving on less and less in the early years. Even today the makeup trend remains minimalist with focus on clear skin and bare minimum application of makeup and products like BB cream which are multi functional products.
Although this all sounds very simple, a woman’s 1940s makeup and hair could take a while. Hair was usually worn shoulder-length or a little bit longer, cut straight with no bangs. A bit of layering on the ends gave flat hair more volume and helped achieve the curly look needed for most 1940s hairstyles. First, hairdos were perfectly styled – no messy look. Second, they were never, ever straight and sleek. Curls and volume were in style especially above the forehead and on the ends (rolled under.) Today this look is prominent with blow dry curls and emphasizing on natural curls at the moment. Hairdos almost always started with wet setting pin-curls at night and were styled from there the next morning. In contrast today’s hair trends are spotted as much sleeker and straight look with low bun and wet look.
Unlike 1940s where clothing was necessity, today clothing has become fast fashion and its a form of a recreation activity. With the rise of social media and ecommerce fashion and retail industry has been influenced on a mass level. 1940s Channel’s New Look the most prominent being rounded shoulders, a cinched waist and a full A-line skirt. This was a revolution in fashion industry, with flapper style being outdated and new trends taking its place. Contrasting this is today’s silhouette with more relaxed style like drop shoulders rather than rounded shoulders and straight silhouettes unlike cinched waistline and fuller skirts. The makeup trends of the 1940s quite a lot from today’s time with bold lips, nude lips and highlight and contour spotted everywhere.
Icons and Celebrities
The movies of 1940s were influenced by war but was a golden period for the age of cinema with technological breakthrough in that era. Films like Citizen Cane, Casablanca and The Grapes of Wrath are still cherished by the filmmakers to this very day. Jimmy Stewart was a huge star in the ’40s. “It’s A Wonderful Life” is one of the most moving performances of the actor. There was a strong trend toward comedy as evidenced by the success of Abbot & Costello and Bob Hope. Abbot & Costello were easily the newcomers of the year and their three pictures, Buck Privates, Hold That Ghost and Keep ‘Em Flying brought in a surprising amount of revenue. This is even a trend today with comedy being one of the most important category of films. Now a days movie and cinemas have matured to the level. movie trends have been more educational with documentary movies and real life stories, biographies providing up to date information based on sheer reality of the topic. The most popular stars today like Angelina Jolie, Beyonce and Gigi hadid, Kim Kardashian, Selena Gomez to name a few. This influences fashion the most as people have been looking up to the celebrities and the movies for latest trends and styles.
Another trend leaned toward musicals and the sets were more elaborate and expensive in 1941 than ever before. The box office sensation in 1941 was Sergeant York, the life story of the great American hero of World War I. Today the movie focuses largely on commercial aspect and few short films play a major role. Music industry has grown vastly. Pop stars and singers like Rihanna, Shakira, Selena have been followed by millenials the most and their styles influence a large number of audience. A feature of the movie industry’s role in war preparations was an extensive army training film program, with the studios and guilds participating without profit. The program was led by Darryl Zanuck, who had been appointed a lieutenant colonel in the army signal corps.
These days popular apps like Netflix and amazon prime are the leading movie and series streaming apps which have changed the way people watch cinema. People can now watch cinema at in their home in cell phones or laptops. They can choose from a wide of variety of genres in terms of movies and music with numerous options in each.
The celebrities that influenced the fashion was Ava Gardner, one of the most popular and successful actresses. Popular look in 1940s where she is showcasing a belted waist and a chic neckerchief; both of which were key 1940s fashion trends. Other celebrities influencing fashion were Bette Davis, Rita Hayworth, Doris Day and Katharine Hepburn all spotted wearing the trendiest clothes of that decade. Similar fashion can be seen today with actors showcasing latest trends styles and make up influencing millennials of today. Unlike 1940s fashion in terms of hair has changed the most with more casual hairstyles and clothing that is more relaxed and minimalist.
Social and Political Events and Their Effect on Fashion
The war affected almost every aspect of American life. During 1940s US emerged as a world leader. It ended the Great Depression (1930–39), provided work for everyone, and raised incomes. By the end of the decade, the United States had a large and well-off middle class. World war 2 brought an end to the British Empire and its influence and President Franklin D. Roosevelt knew that. He managed America’s involvement in the war so that the United States could replace Britain in world affairs after 1945. Roosevelt led America through the war with a minimum number of casualties. But after his death, critics blamed him for the survival of the Soviet Union and the beginning of the cold war. Giant corporations had begun to dominate American business, while the federal government had immense wealth and power. All of these changes had an effect on the operation of American government and the law. But the most dramatic change in American political life was the rising power of the military. Even today America is a super power with a support of technology and military. Even in current times Britain’s shocking vote in June 2017 to leave the European Union (EU), the fashion economy was dealt one of the biggest blows when both the pound and stock market took a plunge. This affected fashion designers and they expressed their disappointment through social media. The changes in governments and their policies also make a huge impact for eg. if heavy taxes are levied on luxury items, people tend to buy them less.
The Changes in Retail Shopping Formats
As the war came to an end, the United States emerged as world superpowers. The baby boomers were growing rapidly in that decade. The post –World War II economic boom, which brought about high economic growth worldwide, would last into the early 1970’s. One of the retailers founded during the war, in 1943 was Jo-Ann Stores Inc. Started at the height of wartime shortages and sacrifices and following an enduring and debilitating recession, a sewing and crafts store seemed to be one of the most appropriately needed types of retailers. Even today small speciality stores like Paperchase exist and provide exclusive merchandise to people. 1947 saw the birth of Spencer Gifts as a mail-order catalog retailer. This at a time when the country was about to experience a new found mobility and found comfort in the convenience of mail order as seen in the commanding popularity of the catalogs issued by Sears, Roebuck and Co., among others. Regional discount variety chain Fred’s Inc. was also founded in 1947, as a single unit operator in Mississippi. Interestingly the late 40’s witnessed the birth of two future toy giants. Mattel Inc. was founded in 1945 and Toys “R” Us Inc. was founded just three years later. The rapidly approaching baby boom within a climate of startling prosperity and revolutionary plans for merchandising guaranteed astounding success for these toy industry pioneers. Today retail giants like Ikea, Target, Walmart and online brands like Amazon, Asos have captured the majority of the market. With social media in picture there has been major retail shifts from brick and mortar to online stores and new retail concepts like pop up stores coming in the picture.
Unlike 1940s retail sector today is facing severe issues with lot of big brands closing their retail stores and brands going bankrupt due to the whole economic recession that hit the world. It has become hard for retailers to get in store sales with consumers having multiple options unlike the 40s which was the beginning of the retail and hence was a flourishing business to open up stores. More innovative concepts of retail with a mix of in store and online experience is what is driving the consumers today with majority of the shoppers being millennials. Also a whole trend of customisation has taken place where people want unique made to order products as per their requirements.
References
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