Lankford's Grocery: A Nostalgic Culinary Oasis in Houston

The rich aroma of the dish wafted down and beckoned me. I could not resist the delightful sensations that whipped up inside my memory at the thought of digging my teeth into the scrumptious burger. Delicately stacked between two slices of white bread were bright red tomatoes, vibrant green lettuce, a juicy medium-well done slab of beef, a sliced avocado, and an egg over easy. Sesame seeds were spread atop in plentiful amounts and the wide assortment of condiments dripped down in the perfect quantities to create a taste unlike any other.

As I clutched the large burger with two hands, I licked my lips, anticipating my first bite into the mouthwatering burger, only to have bursts of flavors explode in my mouth, sending me to my happiest place.

Lankford’s Grocery and Market had surpassed my standards of a decent restaurant, for their burgers were incredible. For a 73-year-old restaurant, Lankford Grocery is a breath of fresh air. Located in the quickly redeveloping neighborhoods of Montrose and the Fourth Ward, the rundown burger joint in an extravagant display of hues of red and white has never suffered the slap of modernization.

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Instead, Lankford’s has remained intriguingly old-fashioned (yet up to date) throughout the years, while still dealing in both remarkable burgers and nostalgia. Lankford’s is distressed around the edges, inside and out, and it’s to its benefit. Its dining room contains clustered tables with picnic tablecloths and grease-slicked tiled floors that seem to move as you navigate the place without crashing into your neighbor's booth.

Outside, cherry red picnic tables sprawl across an equally uneven cement terrain that's been warped by years of tree roots and Houston humidity. In addition, one of the most remarkable things about Lankford is the way it manages to be both modern and anachronistic at the same time. There are no flat-screen TVs in the dining room, and the waitresses wear T-shirts with their names stenciled on in silver puff paint, the prices are reasonable, and Lankford’s only accepts cash. The atmosphere is inviting and friendly, for this restaurant immensely promotes communication instead of the use of technology. In similarity, the burgers enhance Lankford’s even more than it ever possibly could.

With new creations with every burger, modern edifications, like the pineapple-wasabi burger that's topped with crispy red onions and a spicy, horseradish-infused mayonnaise that's balanced by the sweetness of an abundant, soaked slice of pineapple, are made for everyone’s desires. These creations are among the things that keep Lankford popular no matter what the year is. This year, that pineapple-wasabi burger made it onto Houston Press list of 100 Favorite Dishes in Houston. Last year, it was the macaroni-and-cheese-topped Grim Burger, which also comes with jalapeños, bacon and a fried egg for maximum beauty and artery-clogging potential. As I entered the establishment, the old fashioned, friendly atmosphere slapped me in the face. Waiters were buzzing around, moving quickly from table to table, each with a pearly smile on their faces.

Because it was around noon, all of the tables were filled, causing me to endure around a 10-15 minute wait (which was not unbearable at all). After waiting, the welcoming hostess directed me to a picnic table outside. Quickly, a waiter popped up beside my table. “Hey there! My name is Grant, and I’ll be your server today. May I get you something to drink?” Grant chirped, handing me a rustic looking menu. After ordering a lemonade, he skipped off to retrieve my drink. To expound on this, the service here was astonishing. Having a lively, energetic waiter put me in a great mood, causing a smile to form on my face. Glancing at the one paged menu, I eyed the selections Lankford’s offered. Various types of hamburgers and sandwiches filled the page, all the way from the pineapple-wasabi burger to the macaroni-and-cheese-topped Grim Burger.

To play it safe, when Grant came back to take my order and to drop odd my drink, I ordered a hamburger with the extra toppings of egg and avocado. Waiting, I took a note of my lemonade.  My drink was presented in a cute way, for it was in glass jar with a pink swirly straw. Taking a sip, my taste buds exploded. The sugar was not overbearing and the lemon didn’t make it sour, and it was equally balanced. With speedy service, in no more than 15 minutes, my burger laid in front of me. Now, I have eaten many burgers in my life time, and my overall standard of a burger consisted of around a third of a pound of meat, fresh vegetables, and a good sauce, but the burger that laid in front of me definitely set the bar high.

The patty was about as big as a cd disk and about an inch thick. The lettuce was cleanly chopped, the tomatoes were bright red and juicy, the avocado was a vibrant green, and the egg was still sizzling. My jaw dropped – it was beautiful. Taking my first bite, many flavors exploded in my mouth: the crunch of the lettuce, the pop of the tomato, the seasoning of the patty, everything. The meat was pink and juicy inside, and the egg was cooked perfectly (not too runny, but not too overcooked). As I munched on, Grant would stop by to check up on me, making sure that everything was going well and that my drink was never empty.

After I finished, Grant dropped off the check; a total of $12.46 was printed onto the receipt, which was great considering I had ordered a burger with two extra toppings and a lemonade. I left with a smile on my face, for Lankford Grocery and Market had indubitably surpassed my expectations. Overall, Lankford Grocery and Market is not your average restaurant. The service is unmatched, the food is served in large portions with reasonable prices, and the atmosphere is enjoyable and pleasing. However, if you find modern and technology based establishments more pleasing, this may not be the restaurant for you, yet I still encourage you to give Lankford’s a try.