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Womens dress in sports created a trend for women who didn’t even play a sport. The shorts they would wear were upper thigh length and straight which was big deal. The clothing was designed for golf, and tennis. Golf dresses were constructed of cotton and were made to be able to accommodate the golf swing.
(525) Tennis players were wearing white and outfits consisted of shorts skirts and a top. Public courts would wear a basic knit top with colored shorts.
Certain factors that contributed to the increase in ready-to-wear clothing were, women working, department stores, the invention of the sewing machine and the increase in technology. The industry expanded by 1920.
Specific items of clothing that originated during WWI were, the lady’s corset cover and drawers from 1907, Men’s union suit and drawers, 1914. And the petticoat combination, all undergarments and during WWI were said to have done a 360.
Paul Poiret was a French fashion designer for the early 20th century. He introduced the flowy dress to the fashion industry and put women in hobble skirts which were not easy to walk in.
He say’s “I freed the bosom, shackled the leg, but gave liberty to the body.” (426)
In the Crinoline period they still wore a corset, but the difference was, in 1862 the corset was only covering the breasts down to the hips and in the 1900s it advanced to having more of a tank like shape with garters attached at the bottom to attach to your tights. The Corset in the 1900s also had covers and drawers. Also, the under petticoat in the 1800s was a wool knitted under skirt with a hoopskirt. In the 1900s, a lady’s petticoat was longer and flowy.
Clothing rationing was done by rationing fabrics. Certain fabrics were needed to produce clothing in the USA but with pearl harbor there were some restrictions to importing Japanese silk. (Monet) There was a new fabric that started being produced for most women’s clothing, which was Rayon. Many fabrics needed to produce clothing were in high demand but were needed for the military which left the USA with less materials to make clothing.
The major style features of the new look consist of the recognition of curvy girls and the desired look to have an hour glass figure. Jackets were pinched in at the waist and shoulders were now longer squared and box like, they had a more natural look to them. During WWII the fashion consisted of more war like clothing such as jumpsuits and military style clothing that were comfortable. The clothes went from more of a manly and unflattering style to a very sexy simple and professional style that made them womanlier and more showed off their curves.
Some of the changes in textile were, the fabrics became cheaper and inexpensive and were replaced by handlooms. (Tortora 386) They advanced to having more reliable synthetic dyes. There was a new process developed called weighting where “Silk was treated with chemical salts.” (386) Weighting was then linked to causing damage in split or broken yarns. “Cotton fabrics were improved by mercerizing which improved strength and luster.”
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