History and Uniqueness of Surfing

Surfing is a unique sport that one is able to learn anytime, just looking at the waves and seeing people surf and being taken away by the waves looks so relaxing. No one really knows about the really early years of surfing but it appeared in the late 1700s by Europeans and Polynesians. During 1769 Botanist Joseph Banks writes the first explanation of wave riding in Matavai Bay, Tahiti. Surfing didn’t have its first official contest until 1928 in Corona del Mar, California.

Surfing can be thought at a young age, its open do anyone who would like to learn how to surf. Surfing has its history there are different types of things that happen in the past. My topic is surfing I choose to write about surfing’s past because it has interesting background.

To begin, surfing has its history just like other things, surfing has its background it had to appear at some point. Surfing is like art, it creates its own culture and lifestyle, people love to surf and compete.

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In an article “History of Surfing” it says “The first surfers were fishermen who discovered riding waves was an efficient method of getting to shore with their catch.” The first people who were surfing were fishermen they were catching waves, they had discovered the sport that people enjoy doing today. The fisherman are the first who were able to experience to surf, the sport is so common for people to do nowadays. Overall the fisherman were the first people who had taught themselves how to surf how to manage to stay alive because of all the danger that there is in the ocean like sharks, other sea creatures, wave tides, and other dangerous things that occur inside the ocean.

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Secondly, surfing has history people had different rules about back then, they had different things that we don’t have today. In Hawaii surfing is known as their culture it looked really different during the 1700s than now. In Hawaii they had Hawaiian royalty they use to rule the waters back then. In a website “History of Surfing” it states “The Hawaiian society was split into two social classes, a royal class and the commoner class. The best surfing spots were reserved for royalty and the commoners were stuck with lesser spots.” Hawaiians back then use to be the leaders technically because they called themselves rulers of the waters. The best surfers got the best surfing spots and the rest had other spots that were not as good to surf as the royalty ones had.

Thirdly, surfing has its past and just like other things, it has its own culture that one can learn when surfing. In an article History of Surfing” it states, ‘“The first known occurrences of surfing are connected to the ancient Hawaiian tradition of “he’e nalu,” meaning “wave sliding.”’ the Hawaiian culture had a good day in surfing but it required good waves. Ancient Hawaiians relied of priest to pray for “good surf.” They believed that in order for them to get really good waves they would have to ask the priest to pray in order for them to get the good waves. Overall they believed that they would get “good surf” if they pray and if so they can have a good day.

Lastly, surfing has a history and the boards that they use to ride back then were different than today. The boards back then were wood crafted like if one is to make a door, the Polynesian royalty had there surf boards crafted for them. The royalties had better surfboards than the rest of the other people who surfed. In a book named “The History of Surfing” by Matt Warshaw writes, “As it turns out the average board made in the 1930s weighed about fifty pounds.” There are surf boards that weigh a lot today, the boards back then only weighed 50 pounds. There are different types of boards that weigh differently because it depends of the length of how the board is. Each board weighs differently because of the height one’s board is or other.

To conclude, surfing has its history, there are different things now in the present that are different to the past. The surfboards are more well made in the 1700s because only royalty had well crafted surfboards. The people were not split up into two social classes anymore everyone surfs wherever they want to surf. The first people who surfed were fishermen they learned and managed to be able to surf and learn how to make surfboards. Surfing history is unique how they started to learn how to surf how the people survived in the ocean because of the dangerous things that can happen in an ocean.

Works Cited

  • “The Origins of Surfing” Web. Accessed 24 November 2018
  • “HIstory of Surfing” Web. Accessed 24 November 2018
  • “History Of Surfing” Surf Culture Web Accessed 24 November 2018
  • Matt Warshaw “The HIstory of Surfing” Published 2017 Web Accessed 24 November 2018
  • “The Most Important Dates in The History of Surfing” Web. Accessed 24 November 2018
  • Margaret Rhodes “The Fascinating Evolution of the Surfboards” February 25, 2016 Web Accessed 24 November 2018
  • 1 http://iml.jou.ufl.edu/projects/spring04/britton/history.htm
  • 2 https://hawaiianpaddlesports.com/news/history-of-surfing/
  • 3 http://archive.clubofthewaves.com/surf-culture/history-of-surfing.php
  • 4https://books.google.com/books/about/The_History_of_Surfing.html?id=wNR_ZMZCt4kC&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button#v=onepage&q&f=false


  • https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/10553-the-most-important-dates-in-the-history-of-surfing
  • https://www.wired.com/2016/02/fascinating-evolution-surfboard/

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History and Uniqueness of Surfing. (2021, Oct 05). Retrieved from https://studymoose.com/history-and-uniqueness-of-surfing-essay

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